🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.